With round 200 primarily artisanal producers, the French whisky trade has the potential to be a pressure for high quality spirits.
*This characteristic was first revealed within the November challenge of The Spirits Enterprise journal.
Whereas France has lengthy been celebrated for its wine, Cognac, and Armagnac, a brand new participant is rising within the nation’s spirits scene – whisky. Only a few a long time in the past, French whisky manufacturing was restricted to a handful of small distilleries. Right now, the sector is booming, with a whole bunch of lively producers, sturdy gross sales development, and a geographical indication (GI) in growth to formalise its identification.
In keeping with the Fédération du Whisky de France, the nation now counts round 200 whisky producers, although most are small‐ scale operations. Roughly 10 firms account for greater than 80% of complete output, signalling a maturing but artisanal trade.
Citing Nielsen IQ knowledge for France’s on‐commerce, the federation notes that French whisky grew by 7.9% in quantity final yr, and soared by 20.3% in worth. The class, whereas it stays small, is outperforming Scotch, Irish, American, Taiwanese, and Indian whisky, which all recorded quantity and worth declines within the French on‐commerce final yr. Moreover French whisky, solely Japanese whisky managed to publish development.
“French whisky is a really current, very new class that’s rising very quick,” says David Roussier, who leads household‐run Distillerie Warenghem in Brittany, producer of the effectively‐ identified Armorik whisky model. “Extra persons are truly prepared to attempt some French whisky. The retailers have French whisky now, most likely virtually 20% of what they’ve of their small outlets is French whisky. On the grocery store distribution for the second, we’re lower than 1% of the market, so it’s small, nevertheless it’s the quickest‐rising class in France proper now.”
Matthieu Acar, retail supervisor and French whisky skilled at retailer and distributor La Maison du Whisky, notes that whereas France is a large marketplace for whisky, it stays dominated by Scotch. He says French whisky produces solely two million bottles per yr, making up 1% of the nation’s complete whisky consumption. “We are going to go to 4 or six million bottles per yr fairly simply,” he provides, however he warns that within the subsequent 5 years will probably be “harder as a result of French whisky may be very artisanal – it’s not low-cost whisky. We’re not excellent at making low‐priced whisky or blended whisky. We have now to remain within the premium section.”
To assist the French whisky sector develop, Acar believes there’s a want to coach French individuals on the class and its nuances. He explains that the trade usually makes use of Cognac and native wine casks, in addition to many forms of uncooked supplies comparable to rye, oats, and spelt.
Acar additionally highlights the abundance of French whisky producers that have been on present at September’s Whisky Dwell Paris present, on the Grand Corridor de La Vilette, which was organised by La Maison du Whisky. The present featured a devoted French pavilion, showcasing native whisky makers comparable to Alfred Giraud, Armorik, Bellevoye, Brenne, Hautes Glaces, Heriose, and Laferté. “It is a main occasion as a result of individuals can style and perceive whisky. We had 27 French distilleries, the dynamic was good, and other people have been making an attempt French whisky, and beginning to prefer it.”
Pricier finish
Whisky gross sales in France are additionally dominated by the off‐commerce, the place the grocery store tends to steer the sector. Jean‐Sébastien Robicquet, founding father of French spirits maker and distributor Maison Villevert, factors out that whereas there are some excessive‐quantity Scotch blends beneath €25 (US$29) comparable to William Peel and Label 5, most French whiskies are typically on the pricier finish of the dimensions.
He asks: “Is the query about reworking the French shopper or is the query about having sufficient inventory to produce? You might be caught between an instantaneous return on funding and the necessity to construct the manufacturers in the long term, the necessity to have a popularity, and the necessity to have actual whisky aficionados who would go for 15‐, 18‐, 20‐yr‐outdated.”
One early indicator that French whisky has the potential to increase is when a global drinks group makes a play within the class. One instance is Rémy Cointreau’s 2017 buy of Domaine des Hautes Glaces, an natural single malt whisky maker within the French Alps. Three years later, Maison Villevert acquired Celtic Whisky Firm, based mostly in Northern Brittany. Robicquet says the acquisition of Celtic Whisky Distillery was a “no‐brainer” due to the “fantastic individuals, excellent surroundings, state‐of‐the artwork distillery and excellent product”.
An skilled in making spirits, Maison Villevert produces G’Vine gin and La Quintinye vermouth, amongst different merchandise. Robicquet had thought of making whisky himself however ultimately, he believes shopping for the distillery was the appropriate transfer, mixed with the model workforce’s 20 years of expertise and its superb location within the north of the nation.
Celtic Whisky Distillery has turn out to be identified for its flagship single malt Glann Ar Mor, its peated whisky Kornog, and Gwalarn, a mix of ‘Celtic’ whiskies. The latter is alleged to mix the complexity of a Scotch whisky, the character of a German expression, and the peat of Kornog.
Frédéric Revol, founding father of Hautes Glaces, says the French whisky trade has seen lots of funding, together with from different Cognac homes. “There are some which can be making whisky, however have been historically making Cognac,” he notes. Nevertheless, he warns that Cognac is “not in a good condition”, and due to this fact “funding is slowing just a little bit, however this can be a query of confidence. So if tomorrow there’s a GI, and the French class begins to emerge globally, then funding will come again for positive.”
Cognac stays the nation’s largest‐promoting French spirit, however 97.5% of the trade is consumed exterior of its house market. The French whisky sector appears to be taking a distinct method, specializing in its house territory first earlier than concentrating on international markets.
For Distillerie Warenghem, the primary focus has been the French market, notably for the previous two years. Roussier would love Armorik to keep up a management place in French whisky, including: “We have now to be current on the French market to stay in that place, and the export market has been fairly tough for everybody.”
Armorik makes a number of forms of French single malt whiskies, together with the Traditional, which is a mix of Bourbon and Sherry cask‐ aged whiskies, and the Sherry Cask, which is matured completely in Sherry casks.
Deal with Europe
Armorik’s largest worldwide market is Germany, whereas China has been rising, however is “harder nowadays”, says Roussier. Europe is the primary focus, together with Poland, Belgium, the Netherlands, and the UK.
Revol believes there’s a must construct the class internationally. Hautes Glaces exports to markets such because the UK, Japan, and the Nordics, Revol says, however the firm is taking a cautious method to its international growth. “I’m positive there are lots of international locations and those that can be involved in Hautes Glaces. That is the start, and we’re taking our time, step-by-step.” Revol says at this yr’s Whisky Present in London, there was lots of curiosity in terroir‐pushed whiskies like Hautes Glaces.
Robicquet says the dearth of inventory is a problem in the case of exports. “In the event you don’t have the inventory, it’s going to be tough.” He cites the UK, Italy, and Japan as markets with alternative for development for French whisky.
Grain‐to‐glass producer Hautes Glaces takes a French wine method to whisky making. Its portfolio consists of rye‐based mostly new‐make eau‐ de‐vie Vulson, and single malt Indigene, which each kind a part of the distillery’s everlasting vary. Restricted version choices embrace Epistémè, which goals to mirror 15 years of alchemical and fertile exploration via the Hautes Glaces terroir.
A GI can also be essential for establishing a class, distinguishing what French whisky is, and defending its qualities. A GI for French whisky has been within the works for a lot of years, and is it hoped that will probably be finalised by the top of 2026 on the earliest, in response to the Fédération du Whisky de France. The GI can even incorporate the Alsace and Brittany GIs, which have been established in 2015. The federation’s president, Christian Bec, says it has been a problem to develop the GI and be certain that its members are proud of the proposal.
There are some discussions concerning the subcategories and learn how to identify them inside the GI proposal, Revol provides. Revol believes the GI will assist France turn out to be “established as an lively whisky nation on a worldwide scale”, just like the emergence of Japanese whisky. “The query of provenance and transparency are two good drivers for high quality and rising consciousness,” he says.
No GI coherence
Nevertheless, Robiquet is sceptical concerning the GI. “Right now, there are such a lot of gamers, so many types. You’ve acquired one utilizing barley, the opposite one utilizing black wheat. Some are distilling on column stills, some are distilling with Cognac stills. How will you promote a GI if there isn’t any actual coherence? Except it’s to guard gamers. What’s the distinction between whisky distilled in Cognac, Alsace, or in Brittany, and even in Paris? It’s just a little too untimely, with some guidelines that should be accepted by everyone and understood.”
France’s whisky trade, as soon as a distinct segment market, is now experiencing important development and recognition. With practically 200 producers, rising home gross sales, and growing worldwide consideration, French whisky is evolving right into a revered class of its personal. Nevertheless, challenges stay, together with restricted manufacturing capability, the necessity for higher shopper training, and debates surrounding a GI.
Regardless of these hurdles, France is positioning itself as an rising whisky nation – one which mirrors the success tales of Japanese whisky, and displays the nation’s deep dedication to high quality, innovation, and terroir.
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