For many years, American whiskey has been formed by a comparatively small circle of entrenched producers concentrated in Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana. Whereas a couple of early independents matriculated within the mid-Nineteen Nineties and early 2000s, the interval between 2010 and 2015 marked a dramatic enhance within the variety of small distilleries throughout the nation. These newcomers entered a market already dominated by deeply established operations with immense manufacturing capability, intensive inventories, and generations of gathered expertise. The benefit was unmistakable. Massive producers may make mature, high-quality whiskey at a value level that younger distilleries merely couldn’t match.
It grew to become apparent fairly rapidly that smaller operations had been by no means going to out-Beam Jim Beam. Competing on worth, quantity, or custom was a dropping proposition. As a substitute, craft distillers started to search for methods to distinguish — approaches that departed from conference, even when these selections launched inefficiency or increased prices. The objective was to create one thing completely different sufficient to seize consideration on cabinets shared with names like Maker’s Mark and 4 Roses.
Center West Spirits of Columbus, Ohio selected an unconventional path by centering its whiskey round an uncommon type of rye: darkish pumpernickel. Whereas pumpernickel bread is acquainted to most Individuals, its use as a basis for American whiskey was extraordinary. Nearly all of rye whiskey manufacturing depends on uniform, bulk commodity rye grain chosen for consistency and ease of processing. Pumpernickel, nevertheless, isn’t a rye selection however a technique. It refers much less to genetics and extra to therapy.
Conventional pumpernickel begins with entire rye berries fairly than refined flour. The grain is cracked or coarsely milled, leaving the bran, germ, and endosperm intact. It’s then subjected to extended, low-temperature cooking — usually lasting 16 to 24 hours. The place standard rye whiskey manufacturing prioritizes fast starch conversion, quick fermentations, and a clear, predictable spice profile, pumpernickel favors complexity over pace. The method preserves compounds which can be sometimes stripped away, with its hallmark character rising from gradual Maillard reactions fairly than caramelization.
Center West’s darkish pumpernickel rye has demonstrated that this strategy isn’t merely novel, however genuinely glorious within the glass. The Double Cask Assortment’s Ported Pumpernickel Rye expands on that basis. The mashbill consists of 80% darkish pumpernickel rye, supported by 5% Ohio-grown tender crimson winter wheat, 5% non-GMO open-pollinated yellow corn, and 5% two-row malted barley. Fermentation takes place over 72 hours in closed-top vessels. The ensuing distiller’s beer is distilled by a Vendome-built column nonetheless and doubler, producing new make at 135.5 proof.
The spirit enters the barrel at 120 proof, barrels raised by Speyside Cooperage in Jackson, Ohio, that includes a medium toast and a #4 char. For this launch, the bottom rye matured between 4 and a half and 6 years, averaging simply over 5 years. Roughly 35 barrels had been chosen and blended earlier than being transferred into 20 Tawny Port casks at a median entry proof of 123 to 126. These casks, holding between 60 and 66 gallons, beforehand contained Tawny Port for no less than seven years.
The whiskey then spent a further 12 to 24 months resting in these Port casks, including additional improvement onto an already distinctive spirit. What occurs when a darkish pumpernickel rye with such a pronounced identification encounters such an expressive ending cask? Do the port casks dominate the profile, or do they amplify what was already there? Or does the mixture yield one thing completely its personal, leaving a long-lasting impression that defies straightforward categorization? Let’s discover out!
Middlewest Double Cask Assortment Ported Pumpernickel Rye Assessment
This rye presents itself with a nostril that opens on rose petals and darkish, virtually dank molasses. With air, the profile broadens to crimson licorice and prunes, then settles into the scent of day-old espresso grounds. The Tawny Port cask contribution is noticeable at this stage and units a transparent path earlier than the primary sip.
On the palate, vanilla pudding pores and skin and overripe plums arrive first. The midpalate brings toasted cinnamon-raisin bread and ginger chew candies, carried by a notably dense mouthfeel. Whereas the pumpernickel rye character stays considerably muted aromatically, it exhibits itself early on the palate. The closing sequence affords butter pecan ice cream and a port-style demi-glace, tapering into granola crumble.
As a rye with secondary maturation, that is an pleasurable and well-done launch. That stated, my choice nonetheless leans towards Center West’s normal straight rye at 96 proof and the cask power model — each unadorned by Tawny Port casks and each accessible at a decrease price. The added ending right here is fascinating however doesn’t fairly justify the premium relative to the pleasure it delivers.
For these already acquainted with Center West and inquisitive about a completed expression, the Ported Cask Pumpernickel Rye is a worthwhile bottle. For newcomers to the distillery’s rye portfolio, the straight ryes provide a clearer and extra rewarding introduction. Followers of Port-finished whiskey, nevertheless, will discover loads to understand on this launch.
99.5 proof.
B+ / $100
Center West Ported Pumpernickel Rye
USD100
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