
Mary Taylor has original a good profession out of championing the smaller corners of Europe: growers hidden away, working with grapes hardly ever receiving prime billing. Her venture doesn’t place a premium on the same old suspects, however on discovering producers whose wines carry the individuality of their house. At this time’s return go to takes us to the Douro, a area I’ve been having fun with fairly a bit recently, the place Filipe Ferreira of Quinta da Foz as soon as once more presents a purple mix worthy of some highlight.
The mix reprises its composition from 2019: 60% Touriga Nacional, 25% Tinta Roriz, and 15% Touriga Franca, aged in metal and presenting a considerably forthright 14% abv. What threatens to be a blunt-force wine as a substitute presents layered, slow-building character: with aromas of cassis and black cherry, adopted by graphite pencil, tobacco leaf, and black tea all steadily evolving. On the palate, the fruit core stays vivid, framed by refined minerality. The darkish berries, the faint earthy undertow and a contact of smoke all settle right into a end that shows size and concord, holding collectively with out shedding the plot.
It’s already compelling, however endurance will repay, and I’ve a suspicion giving it time away will enable the wine’s finer particulars to floor. For now, although, it provides a persuasive preview of what just a few years of relaxation will reveal.
B+ / $18
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