Few American whiskey manufacturers have skilled as meteoric rise as Penelope. Based in 2018, the model by no means hid its standing as a non-distilling producer (NDP), primarily sourcing barrels from Indiana’s MGP whereas shopping for some from a handful of Kentucky distilleries. Such was their success that MGP/Luxco bought the corporate in 2023, protecting on founders Michael Paladini and Danny Polise to proceed main operations and mixing.
These days, Penelope is distributed in 49 states and 7 nations. We lately reviewed their Single Barrel Property Assortment Bourbon and Personal Choose Property Assortment Bourbon; each obtained excessive marks.
Right this moment, we’re one thing completely totally different: a 17 12 months outdated mild whiskey. Penelope has beforehand launched 13 and 15 12 months outdated mild whiskeys, so this marks one other noticeable step up in age. At 138.8 proof, it’s additionally the strongest of the bunch. Notably, these mild whiskey bottlings appear to have moved from Penelope’s “Founders Reserve” line to a “Restricted Launch” designation.
The whiskey on this launch was distilled in 2006 by Seagram’s at what’s right now MGP’s Ross & Squibb distillery. It was crafted from a mash of 99 p.c corn and 1 p.c malted barley. Like most mild whiskey, it was distilled to an exceptionally excessive proof (on this case 189) after which aged in used cooperage. (Below U.S. laws, mild whiskey will also be aged in new, uncharred oak barrels.)
Let’s see the way it tastes!
The nostril begins off with a giant whiff of creamy eggnog topped with grated nutmeg. I can say from expertise that’s not an unusual aroma in well-aged Seagram’s mild whiskey, however right here, it’s nearly uncanny. Further baking spice — mild cinnamon, toasted clove — quickly catches up, as does the impression of ethanol, comparatively subdued at first however steadily constructing with time within the glass. Recent pralines, vanilla cake frosting, bitter berry sweet, and marzipan spherical out a nostril that leans closely candy however with sufficient complexity to maintain issues fascinating.
For a spirit slightly below the 140 proof “hazmat” line, Penelope’s newest is remarkably approachable at first sip. Melted vanilla ice cream meets amaretto early on. Proper earlier than the midpalate, the sweetness transitions to extra tannic oak, together with darkish buttered toast topped with cinnamon sugar. That thick vanilla creaminess continues all through the sip, whereas malted milk balls and almond extract fold in towards the again of the tongue. Your complete palate feels prefer it’s strolling a tightrope of sweetness, and the whole factor is held collectively by near-astonishing (if precarious) stability. Each time flavors lean towards cloying, one other ingredient pops as much as present distinction within the nick of time.
Almond extract and brown sugar linger on the end, together with clove and a giant pop of returning nutmeg. It’s lengthy and warming, the proof exhibiting a glimmer of itself within the throat just a few seconds after every sip. Further water accentuates small quantities of tart berries in syrup along with candied ginger.
I discover grading mild whiskey a problem, as there’s a portion of whiskey drinkers delay by the class’s inherent sweetness. Frankly, that’s considerably comprehensible, even to a fan.
That stated, it’s unimaginable to disclaim Penelope’s newest model is among the many highest I’ve tasted. It’s a strong pour disguised as a a lot simpler sipper. Proceed with endurance, and also you’ll be rewarded with probably the greatest American mild whiskeys in the marketplace right now.
138.8 proof.
A / $100 / penelopebourbon.com
Penelope American Gentle Whiskey 17 Years Outdated
$100
