Heat up with some cake!
Illustration: Naomi Otsu
Welcome to Grub Road’s rundown of restaurant suggestions that goals to reply the endlessly recurring query: The place ought to we go? These are the spots that our meals group thinks everybody ought to go to, for any cause (a brand new chef, the arrival of an thrilling dish, or possibly there’s a gap that’s flown too far beneath the radar). This month: Neighborly Oaxacan in Greenpoint, extremely Instagrammable Thai pastries in Gramercy, and a really welcome new spot for dinner within the Theater District.
Chim Chim (Gramercy)
In Thai, chim means “to style” — Chim Chim’s web site describes it as a “pleasant time period for experiencing flavors.” That invitational ethos animates this sweets vacation spot, which lately leveled up from a house bakery to an intimate storefront on the outskirts of Stuy City. Get a specialty espresso and a slice every of the ethereal, aromatic pandan-coconut cake and the attractive butterfly-pea-coconut-jelly pie, which is so fairly it feels impolite to stab it with a fork. The justifiably viral salted-egg taro cheesecake with pork floss is a nonnegotiable — mushy, candy, and savory. —Shay Cohen
Pattin’ (Instances Sq.)
I’m nonetheless mourning the loss of Café Un Deux Trois, which closed in January after 48 years on forty fourth Road, as the perfect reasonably priced pre-Broadway restaurant. Pattin’, a brand new cozy American restaurant hooked up to the Mayfair Lodge on forty ninth Road, isn’t any inheritor to the beloved French establishment (no less than not but), however should you consider a restaurant’s soul can reincarnate, there’s a non secular connection between the 2. The anchovy-heavy Pattin’ Caesar and the filet au poivre are higher than most Instances Sq. meals. The boneless branzino, served over ratatouille, is cheap for the neighborhood at $38 and price ordering even should you don’t have an 8 p.m. present to catch. In the event you’re solely there for a drink, you may order cocktails themed to its neighbors, together with The Guide of Mormon and Chicago. Theater-district eating is more and more dire; Pattin’ is a welcome addition. —Zach Schiffman
All of Our Picks, Mapped
Stars (East Village)
We want one other wine bar like a gap within the head, and even so, right here I’m making a carve-out for Stars. Why? As a result of it feels to me extra like a home social gathering than one more soppressata and sangio-slinging bar. The meals is superb — I beloved some tiny stuffed peppers, little cherry bombs of pork sausage bathed in tarragon bérnaise, and a shrimp sandwich someplace between a shrimp roll and a tea sandwich — however it’s small and there’s not a lot of it. Reasonably, go whilst you watch for a desk elsewhere. There are 12 seats obtainable round a zinc bar and no reservations, however that simply retains issues a little bit extra trustworthy than they is perhaps in any other case. I’ve had essentially the most enjoyable posted up on the standing counter across the room’s perimeter, the place, over the course of an evening, I’ve discovered myself rotating from one facet of the room to the following. The employees rotates too, all of which lends the place a form of tipsy conviviality that small rooms and glorious wine can engender. —Matthew Schneier
Border City (Greenpoint)
This pop-up-gone-permanent has already earned justifiable reward for its small, chewy, griddle-marked flour tortillas, however the perfect taco throughout a current tasting was a $7 every day particular of crisp-edged pork stomach on a candy spherical of blue maize. Every thing is nice, although, which might be why the yellow-bordered eating room was full of neighbors and native households dipping crunchy tortillas into herb-strewn guacamole by 5:30 p.m. Go proper when it opens, or late, or simply present up at 3 p.m. on the weekend, when the bar will get going early and you’ll work up an urge for food over a few mezcal margaritas. —Alan Sytsma
Café Mulberry (Nolita)
Dinnertime gives roast hen and caviar whereas a bar downstairs has an unique door coverage from 9 p.m. on, however daytime is when this new little bistro is at its most charming. The counter up entrance sells espresso from Brooklyn’s finest roaster, Sey, alongside La Bicyclette pastries and baguettes to go. However for a correct pause, you’ll need to be seated within the eating room behind the scenes, insulated sufficient from buyers outdoors to serenely bask in soft-boiled eggs à la coque with out a display. Fraise Fraiche, a tart strawberry-lemonade aperitif, was made extra particular by its skinny, footed glass, whereas a bowl of correctly darkened onion soup was enhanced with a puff-pastry lid topped with a flurry of finely grated cheese. The croque monsieur is extra textbook, although glorious, with Gruyère and tender ham sandwiched between thick-sliced, crustless brioche fried to a deep brown and broiled with béchamel. —Tammie Teclemariam
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