A plate of spaghetti and a mug of Manhattan Particular at Ferdinando’s Focacceria.
Photograph: Joe Buglewicz/Redux
After working for 12 a long time at 151 Union Road, the abrupt, late-February closure of Ferdinando’s Focacceria got here as a shock to many who knew the Carroll Gardens establishment for its back-home-style Sicilian classics like panelle; stuffed, sun-dried tomatoes; and the Vastedda, a spleen-and-ricotta sandwich. Many additionally questioned what would occur to the area, a historic constructing brimming with reminiscences. This week, we bought our reply: longtime proprietor Frank Buffa handed the torch to Sal Lamboglia, the chef behind the close by Cafe Spaghetti, Swoony’s, and Sal Tang’s. We caught up with Lamboglia, who, along with celebrating the announcement, is anticipating his third youngster “any day now.”
Had been you even pondering of opening one other restaurant?
I’m at all times wanting round. Individuals are at all times calling me. I’m at all times fascinated with taking a gathering and seeing what’s on the market. This quickly? No. In order that got here as a shock.
I heard that you simply have been chosen by Frank.
Frank referred to as me this morning. I suppose a radio station had simply referred to as him and requested about it, in order that information got here from him. He’s like, “I’m simply letting you already know that they referred to as me as we speak.” I’m not gonna do a Sicilian accent, his is famous, and my dad and mom grew up in Naples and I do know all of the accents, however he mentioned, “I simply wished to allow them to know that I picked you since you’re a superb man.” He mentioned some very nice issues, it was particular.
We knew one another. We clearly had locations on the identical block, however the quantity of people that knew each of us — I imply, I bought 200 messages as we speak that mentioned, “we love Frank, we love you, we’re so excited!” So it’s like I knew him for a very long time. Now we’re like greatest associates.
How did you discover out that the area was obtainable? Did you method Frank after the closing?
I didn’t method him. I had a very good buddy and neighborhood common attain out to me some time again and say “Frank wished me to say to you in case you’d be fascinated with taking up Fernando’s,” and I mentioned completely. However I didn’t attain again out to Frank. I simply waited for him. In fact, I used to be ready and freaking out. I instructed my spouse about it. However in terms of this location, there’s no dealer. It was simply Frank deciding for himself. So this situation was actually particular the place his resolution was solely gonna be made by him and nobody else.
It’s undoubtedly a passing of the crown second. Do you are feeling such as you’re prepared for the stature? Are you ready to be there for 100 years?
I hope so. I’m smiling from ear to ear. It’s an honor. I’m large with household historical past, and naturally, Italian tradition, antiques and previous photographs. He’s bought a lot of that inside there that I’m gonna hold. It implies that a lot to me and to the entire neighborhood much more so.
Sounds such as you’ll be doing a historic renovation. It’s such an previous area, although, I’m positive it would be best to clear it up.
Sure. Paint and do all that stuff. I put myself in Frank’s sneakers for a second and all of the issues that he has on the wall and has glued to the showcase — there’s this flower pot with pretend lemons popping out of it, and I wish to transfer it, however I noticed that it was glued to the glass showcase, in order that’s the place it’d dwell ceaselessly. The bones are wonderful, it’s such a particular place. But it surely wants a pleasant little face-lift, so we’ll be doing a few of that.
Is there a fire in there?
No, there’s an previous fire that’s not working, however it may be working.
Will you maintain on to something from the earlier menu? Did the restaurant include a cookbook?
All of it simply occurred actually, actually shortly. It wasn’t like in my different eating places the place I went to go see the place 4 or 5 occasions and sit down and I knew what I used to be getting. This isn’t like that. I don’t actually know but. I’m positive that there will likely be issues from their menu. I’m simply attempting to determine in what capability and what model.
One factor that I’ll say, which implies loads to me, is Frank already mentioned we are able to make a few dishes collectively at any time when I need. So I’m hoping to get that on the books within the subsequent couple of weeks, the place we are able to make a few issues that he treasured, which in fact is like so cool, proper?
Yeah, you’re gonna should movie these and go them on or one thing.
It’s so particular. I didn’t assume he was gonna say that, however he mentioned “If you wish to make the panelle, we make it collectively.”
The tripe stew is a giant one.
In Naples, they promote tripe on the road. They lower it with scissors, it’s so aggressive like that. No person right here actually needs it identical to boiled and steamed with lemon. However I’ve made so many variations of tripe stew over time: at Locanda Verde, at the Dutch with Fritos. I like making tripe. It’ll be there in some unspecified time in the future.
Now that you’ve got a number of Italian eating places in the identical neighborhood, what are you going to do to differentiate this one?
This one is gonna be … I don’t even know but, but it surely’s not gonna be like Cafe Spaghetti. No matter it’s, it’s gonna be totally different and I’m in. It’s been enjoyable. I simply jumped into that stage once more of determining what to do and the way I’m gonna do it, so I’m having fun with the entire course of now. There are such a lot of issues that I wanna do. It’s so particular for me, taking it over and signing it and being within the area.
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