Sagrantino is a grape that genuinely humbles. Not in a pretentious, wine-clown type of method, however extra like the best way an extended hike in noon July warmth humbles: you suppose you’re ready, after which someplace round mile three, there’s an epiphany that under no circumstances do you have got enterprise being on the market. That’s Sagrantino: dense, tannic and aggressively structured, particularly when it’s younger. You don’t casually sip it in its youthful stage. It’s extra of a negotiation.
It originates in Umbria, particularly the world round Montefalco, a hilltop city that most individuals outdoors of Italy have by no means heard of, besides in a Stanley Tucci journey program, and certain (current firm included) couldn’t find on a nationwide map. The grape has been grown there for a very long time, longer than most fashionable wine areas have even existed. Historically, it was made each dry and candy, although the dry model is what most individuals encounter as we speak. The flavors, in fact, skew darkish: blackberry, dried plum, bitter chocolate, a type of leathery, natural undercurrent that lingers. Younger bottles may be virtually punishing to sip. However when growing old a bottle for 5 to 10 years, one thing shifts. The tannins combine and the fruit deepens. It turns into a type of wines you open on a big event after which spend fairly a little bit of time discussing.
None of that makes it straightforward to develop or make. It most definitely will not be. Sagrantino has a method of punishing carelessness within the winery and speeding within the cellar. It desires what it desires and makes zero apologies for taking the time it takes.
Right here’s the factor, although: a few of those self same demanding qualities are precisely what make it fascinating that Sagrantino appears to be catching on all through the southwest. The Hill Nation of Texas will not be a delicate place to develop wine grapes. The summers are brutal, the rainfall is unreliable, and the margin for error is slim. Varieties that want a number of hand-holding are inclined to crumble. However grapes that advanced in Mediterranean climates? They’ve been doing surprisingly effectively. The limestone soils assist and the warmth, oddly sufficient, helps too, at the very least for the fitting varieties. To this point, Sagrantino appears to be becoming in that class.
The ensuing wines from the area’s Messina Hof are laborious to neatly categorize, which might be a very good signal. The Sagrantino character comes by: there’s nonetheless fairly tannic spine, nonetheless heavy on darkish fruit, nonetheless with a savory, brooding high quality demanding a well-cooked steak as a paring. However Texas places its fingerprints on it, too. The ripeness and weight are totally different. And in a wine area nonetheless figuring all of it out, nonetheless attempting to regulate to the ever-changing local weather, that issues greater than individuals would possibly understand: the willingness to develop one thing troublesome, someplace new, and see what occurs subsequent. That’s a type of daring strikes serving to Texas dwell as much as its popularity and clichés.
Some issues to think about with all wines reviewed beneath: they should age for a substantial period of time, so plan accordingly. Moreover, they require a fairly a bit quantity of air and relaxation when poured from the bottle: they aren’t one thing you possibly can pour, swirl and luxuriate in. Permitting for decanting permits the wine to search out its footing and actually present itself off.
2021 Messina Hof Paulo Sagrantino – A mix of 86% Sagrantino with 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and it’s obvious from the primary pour. On the nostril, licorice, cardamom, and cinnamon transfer in first, with blackberry hanging again and showing later. On the palate, it’s full-bodied and dark-fruited at coronary heart, with pomegranate and that blackberry notice urgent nearer over time. Ultimately, traces of leather-based, spice and tobacco leaf present the type of depth suggesting Cabernet and ample time in an oak barrel. The tannins are available sturdy however by no means run the present, as ample acidity retains the whole lot squared away and in steadiness. Then the end stretches out: lengthy, lingering, and leathery and stacked with an alluring currant notice that hangs round as all else fades from view. From standout of depth, complexity and steadiness that is the perfect of the bunch. Additionally, fairly doubtless the perfect home Sagrantino-based mix of 2026. A / $60
2021 Messina Hof Property Sagrantino – A dense however beautiful core of purple cherry begins issues off. However a giant notice of bell pepper, virtually one thing you’d count on from sure Chilean Carménère, delivers a significant plot twist. Earthy all through, with a faint hint of smoke meat on the end. Messina Hof is admittedly placing within the work right here, which tracks if you already know something about their historical past. They’ve been working out of Bryan near 50 years now, earlier than Texas wine was remotely on anybody’s radar, and again when saying one made wine in Texas was more likely to get a glance of puzzled bewilderment. They’ve caught with it and constructed one thing with tangible outcomes. That type of institutional stubbornness is strictly what it takes to work with a grape like Sagrantino, and actually make it shine. A- / $65
2021 Bonnarrigo Household Wines Heritage Reserve – This sibling label to Messina Hof’s flagship stays firmly rooted within the old-world Italian lane: 50% Sagrantino, 30% Sangiovese, and 20% Primitivo. The mix does a number of helpful moderation, as Sagrantino’s pure depth lands with some management reasonably than brute pressure. It’s extremely well-structured, with agency tannins and a savory, dark-fruit core: extra black cherry and plum shadow than purple licorice rope. There’s sufficient Sangiovese to maintain it from feeling dense, whereas the Primitivo rounds out the center juicier depth and a kick of spice. The excellent news is that it’s able to open now. The higher information: when you want persistence, it ought to settle additional over the following few years, with the sides smoothing right into a extra seamless end. Both method, beautiful and stylish throughout. A- / $40
2021 Messina Hof Reserva Excessive Plain Sagrantino – As anticipated, a furnace blast of darkish fruit and cocoa rises from the glass, and after a little bit of air, issues simmer down and roasted plum peeks by. Nonetheless, it’s all seriousness from begin to end, with loads of tannins giving the entire thing construction and permitting the black cherry and blackberry to shine on the palate. It’s dense and assertive, and makes no apologies for what it’s. Nonetheless, paired with the fitting meal and an extended night in, it might actually turn into fairly the expertise. B+ / $40
2023 Bonnarrigo Household Wines Glowing Sagrantino Rosé – And now for a most welcome alternate take after the entire wealthy denseness within the portfolio. The bubbles present up and clean over the inflexible and severe depth of the grape, permitting notes of purple plum and berry to loosen up a bit. Faint traces of cranberry and black tea seem on the palate, all too transient, however the clear, dry end resets the palate for the following sip. Or, in case you are so inclined, the following glass. It manages to be remarkably refreshing and doesn’t fall into the poolside sipper class, but it surely’s simply worthy of a spot on the subsequent dinner patio social gathering with particular friends. A pleasant showcase on Sagrantino’s versatility. A- / $40
2021 Messina Hof Paulo Sagrantino
USD60
